Phew, what a day! We had been planning to do this exciting hike since we first formed the Spritz Club and we knew our time time was running out with winter approaching. So today had to be the day! We left Vicenza at 9AM and eventually found ourselves driving up a windy, narrow dirt road. Mela was driving (for which Ananas and I were incredibly grateful) when we came upon a dump truck and backhoe completely blocking the road! With a wall of dirt to the left and a sheer cliff to the right, we had no choice but to sit and wait. Eventually we had to back down the nerve-racking road and let the truck pass us. After more driving than we expected (“Is this the right way? Why are there no signs for the trail? There should be a parking area somewhere….”) we found the entrance to the Strada delle 52 Gallerie. Tunnel number 1!
Mount Pasubio is one of the major peaks of the Dolomite mountains, though it is certainly not the tallest (its highest peak only reaches 7,323 feet). The Dolomites are part of the Italian Alpen range, so we can officially say we spent the day hiking in the Alps! The 52 Tunnels were military mule roads made by the Alpini (the Italian elite mountain troops) during World War I. They were completed in 1917 and we were surprised by the good shape they are still in today. The Italians must take good care of the trail. Right at the beginning we were greeted by a pretty view of the tiny towns below.
Unfortunately, the day quickly became foggy and in some places we lost almost all visibility. It put a damper on the hike, to be sure. From what we had heard, the views along the trail are some of the most spectacular in the area, and we didn’t get to see any of them! However, we did get to enjoy the spooky eeriness of the mist which was fitting for the Halloween season. We all agreed that it was the perfect place for a haunted trail, and even without any special effects the tunnels were a bit scary on their own in the fog. We all jumped a few times (maybe more than a few for Mela), especially after we had a discussion about scary movies and books. So we got to experience a bit of a different flavor of the trail then most. Here are some shots from the hike….
Can you spot Mela and Ananas through the mist?
The path got steeper, the fog got thicker, and the air got colder. We decided to power through until the halfway point (tunnel 25) before we let ourselves stop for a snack. A little chocolate – brownies and Lindt truffles – would be sure to get us through the rest of the way!
During our hike, Mela spotted some animals up ahead – they were large deer-like creatures with short, skinny horns. We tried to sneak up on them for a picture, but they disappeared down the cliff and into the mist without a sound. (I was pretty sure they were ghosts, considering the day’s eerie weather.) We later discovered that the creatures we had seen were actually Alpine Ibex. How cool is that?! Here are some other flora and fauna you might see along the trail in October.
The highest point of the trail occurs somewhere around tunnel 48, and is about 6,560 feet. After reaching it, we heaved a sigh of relief as the path leveled out. Our relief was short-lived, however, when we came to a sign saying “Caduto Massi.” There had been a rock slide on the path ahead, and we had to take a very steep, very narrow detour. At first we weren’t even sure it was the right path. Luckily Ananas forged ahead and called back to us that she found another sign, and we followed along. Here’s what we found when we reached her.
Ummm….
Clearly these signs wouldn’t be much of a help. So we followed Ananas and her expert hiker instinct, which led us safely back to the original path.
Now is probably as good a time as any to mention the memorials. Along the path we saw several plaques, statues of the Virgin Mary, and even some pictures. We weren’t sure at first, but eventually knew that they were little memorials in remembrance of people who have lost their lives along the trail. Just something to keep in mind as you hike – be safe!
Luckily it wasn’t much longer before we were able to see our very last tunnel in the distance – tunnel 52! Time for the photo op we had been waiting for.
The finish line!
We had read that at the end of the hike there was a restaurant. As we climbed, our optimism about its existence dwindled. It seemed very unlikely that there would be anything up there aside from craggy summits and more fog.
Well, the fog part was right. Wait a minute… what’s that big thing on the side of the mountain? It’s our phantom restaurant, rising through the mist to welcome us with open doors and hot food! This building is an Alpini lodge, probably built around the same time as the mule trail. It now serves as rest stop for weary hikers. You can stay the night, grab a bite, or just use the WC. We all had pasta dishes, which hit the spot like pasta never had before. We finished up with a strudel and Ananas had her first hot chocolate (the good European drinking chocolate) of the season.
The lodge had this cool old picture framed on the wall. Yup, that’s the building during the winter. The patron told us that though the building is closed during the winter, the only way to reach it would be with skis. Maybe the Alpini used to use it in the winter, but we certainly won’t be.
After we paid, our friendly patron convinced us to have a bit of grappa (like I needed convincing). He offered us a variety of flavors and I chose fragola, which was complete with tiny strawberries floating in the bottle. Mela and I “enjoyed” our stiffeners and were ready to begin the journey back down the mountain.
Luckily, there is a way down the mountain that doesn’t include trudging downhill back through the dark, slippery tunnels. There is a road – a real road – that goes right back to the parking lot. It’s gravel, but wide and nice to walk down because the incline is slight. I couldn’t find the road length anywhere, but the consensus seems to be that it’s longer in length than the 52 Tunnels trail, which is a little over 4 miles. Even if the road is longer, it sure doesn’t feel it. It took us 2 hours to make it back down to the car, which was half the 4 hours it took us on the way up! It makes for a nice cool down after the strenuous hike, and is far less dangerous than trying to go back downhill the way we came.
About halfway down to the car, Ananas and I discovered that the hike had aged us terribly – we had developed some serious grey hair!
Old Ladies of the Mist
Despite the poor weather we still enjoyed the ghostly views of crags and tunnels through the fog. It was a great day of hiking, especially for me because I’m not a hiker (although Ananas insists that I’ve earned the title after today). I think we all feel pretty accomplished, but we definitely have to come back on a day when we can enjoy the views. (That’s right Mela, we’re coming back!)
❤ Maracuja
Want to do the 52 Tunnels hike? Here’s our advice:
This hike is NOT easy, no matter what you read. Be prepared to stop often and give yourself 4 hours to hike up (that’s how long it took us). The path is loose, large gravel; it’s hard to walk on and shifts under your feet. The beginning of the path is deceptive; it WILL get steep!
Bring a flashlight. A GOOD one. My headlamp was cheap and cast a weak, narrow beam so it ended up being more of a fashion statement than a valuable hiking tool. Clearly I need to invest in a better one. Some of the tunnels are very short and the daylight reaches all the way through, but others are much longer and completely black. The longest tunnel was 318 meters (over 1,000 feet). Be prepared for some of the tunnels to be treacherous and steep, with puddles, slick areas, and low ceilings.
Bring a snack. Boy were we glad that we thought to bring something to eat! We wished we had brought more substantial snacks though, like PB&J and chips. You’ll also want plenty of water, of course.
Be prepared for the cold. I know that we did this hike in October, but you never know what the temperature difference will be between your house and the top of Mount Pasubio. I was sweating on the hike up and packed away my long-sleeve. But on the way back down, I was freezing even with it on and wished I had a full winter jacket! It can’t hurt to bring a fleece.
Go on a clear day! Our foggy weather definitely cast a dreariness over the already-difficult hike. I think we all would have enjoyed it more if we’d had gorgeous views to break up the sweaty trudging. It seems that the clearest days here come after heavy rains.
It’s been a while since the Spritz Club’s last post and though it’s a bit late, it’s still worth posting about. Our last outing was to a little town north of Vicenza called Bassano del Grappa. We went in search of a Christmas market. Throughout the Christmas season, these markets are spread out through Europe and sell a wide array of Christmas-flavored goods, including ornaments, gifts, and food of all kinds. We had to try the hot apple cider…. Cheers!
After checking out the market, we thought we’d wander down to Bassano del Grappa’s most famous attraction – il Ponte degli Alpini (the Alpini Bridge). The Alpini soldiers have a special affection for the bridge. It has been destroyed several times, and after the last time during WWII they took up a collection to have it completely rebuilt. Apparently the Alpini (and former soldiers) still visit the bridge to remember their fallen brethren and celebrate their history.
Olives are then combed off the tree with rakes and collected into nets. Then the nets are immediately moved into the production area. She stressed how important it is that this process be immediate for high-quality oil. The olives are then placed in several different machines that wash, mash, separate, etc. the olives. Also she told us that true Extra Virgin Olive Oil (come on guys, the good stuff) is made only by using a cold-press process (not hot).
God Save the Spritz 